Bucket List Hike: Preparation for hiking the Grand Canyon

One of my favorite views: Above Cedar Ridge, South Kaibab Trail

"A journey is a person itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us." -- John Steinbeck, in Travels With Charley

That quote from Steinbeck is one of my favorites.  Thus, the first thing I like to open a hiking tour orientation with is saying: Be flexible.  We may come to trips with prior expectations, thinking we know what a trip is going to be, setting ourselves up to be disappointed with something that just isn't how we imagined it.  Be present/flexible and you'll be more likely to be rewarded with an enjoyable experience you may have missed otherwise. 

 

So what do huge vistas, California condors, geologic wonders of the world, mule pack trains, tired legs, and the best bacon you have ever eaten have in common?  They are all possible things you may see or experience when hiking down into and back out of the bottom of the Grand Canyon & Phantom Ranch.  

 

It is recommended to do this hike over two days.  Hike down the first day, spend the night at either Phantom Ranch or Bright Angel Campground (reservations required well in advance for both), then hike out the next day.    

 

Being flexible is definitely recommended for enjoying your hike into/out of the Grand Canyon.  The trip definitely "takes you".  No two trips are alike.  Your first trip?  Prepare yourself** and you'll be primed to enjoy your journey more. 

 

 

Train your body.  This is not a beginner's hike.  Try hiking in Zion first if you haven't spent time in the vertical world of canyons.  Even if you don't have hills where you live, spend time climbing stairs or the stairmaster at the gym.  You're spending most of your hike descending (or ascending) nearly 5000 vertical feet (or more, from the North Rim).  Your quads, hamstrings, and feet will thank you later (or you'll be a case of "Kaibab Crawl"). 

 

 

Know your limits.  Recognize that if you hike down into the canyon, you will need to hike back out.  No, you can't book a mule ride out at the last minute.  Terrified of heights?  Try Zion first.  Wait until you have experience and confidence to undertake this amazing hike.

Use hiking poles.  IMHO, hiking poles were made for the Grand Canyon.  You'll be hiking on steep, rocky, eroded paths.  I find hiking poles help to save quite a bit of fatigue in my knees and quads on the descent.  They also enable me to use my arms to help push up "tall people steps" on the ascent.

Take "Full Meal Deal" breaks.  This means take a break every hour to 90 minutes.  Take off your pack, put your feet up, eat a snack, drink some water (or electrolyte replacement drink).  This doesn't mean you have to take a half hour break.  Five to ten minutes will do.  Keep yourself hydrated and eat to sustain energy levels.

Start early.  If you're staying at Phantom Ranch, this shouldn't be a problem.  They wake you up at 4:30 a.m. for a 5 a.m. breakfast!  (Mmmm, I can smell the bacon now...!)  We usually head out around 6 - 6:15 a.m. to beat the heat and give us plenty of time to enjoy the trail.  

 

 

Be prepared for the weather.  With a 5000' descent/ascent, you'll find at any given time a temperature difference of ~ 3 degrees per 1000'.  Add the time it takes to hike down/up, and depending on the time of year, you could experience a 50 degree temperature difference (or more).  Spring & fall on the trail are usually the most user-friendly times to go.  Check out the GCNP weather page here.

 

 

Address "hot spots" immediately.  If you are feeling a hot spot or blister developing, don't wait.  Pull over and tape or moleskin that hot spot.  Distracting pain can make the hike a lot less fun.  Trim toenails ahead of time, too.  (Check out the posts on blisters here & here if you want more info.)

 

 

It is what it is.  This means that the Grand Canyon, and especially the inner canyon, is an isolated place.  Phantom Ranch is quite civilized for where it is located.  It has running water and showers (except when they work on the water lines).  It has cabins with bunk beds, linens, and towels.  (Bring earplugs!)  They have set meal times and menus that have to be booked in advance.  Make sure you appropriately plan your lodging or meals or  hike with a group that plans for you.  Everything is delivered by mule train, even the mail!  If you have special dietary needs, bring what you need with you.

Don't get Psyched Out.  Put one foot in front of the other on the way up.  You'll get there!  A tip: You'll be able to track your progress if you look back at where you've come from, not how far you have left to go. 

So train, pace yourself, eat, hydrate, start early... do all those things and you'll be stylin'!  Remember, there's ice cream at the Bright Angel Lodge less than five minutes from the Bright Angel Trailhead on the South Rim...!   You deserve it!  ;)         

More information:

• GCNP website here.
• A musical journey (my favorite parts of Grofe's Classical Grand Canyon Suite) here.
• Grand Canyon Natural History Association here. 
• If you want to go hiking with Timberline Adventures, their website is here. 

 

 

Near the bottom of South Kaibab Trail

** Note: No one can predict exactly what the Grand Canyon will present to you.  This is a partial list and not a replacement for using common sense or good judgement.

Out with the Old Year...

Happy 2012! Hope all of you have had an enjoyable holiday season.  As I was sitting down to post today, I was thinking about all the wonderful people I met last season and the amazing hikes we did.

The photos below reflect some of those hikes.  Enjoy!

In February, we led hikes in Hawaii.  We did a 6-day tour of Maui and another 8-day tour split between Kauai & the Big Island.  Both were incredible.  From the lush, Garden Island of Kauai to the almost yin/yang, wet/dry climate of the Big Island, it is hard to believe the variety and diversity that exists on each island, let alone from one end of the state to the other.  

Posing for a Kodak moment at the Kilauea Iki trailhead, Hawaii Volcanoes NP

 

Kilauea Iki, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Big Island

An orchid along Pu'u O'o trail, Hawaii Volcanoes NP

 Enjoying the Hawaiian wildflowers, Volcanoes NP

Lushness at Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui

In early summer, we visited Bryce/Zion, Yosemite, and Glacier National Parks.  A late-arriving spring left impressive amounts of snow in the mountains of the Western U.S., which changed or modified some of the hikes we were able to do.  Although the Bryce/Zion shots here look pretty "normal", the Virgin River was too high to wade into the Narrows the week we were there.    

View of Zion Canyon from Observation Point, Zion NP, Utah

View from the rim of Bryce Ampitheater, Fairyland Loop, Bryce Canyon NP, Utah

A very unusual amount of snow for July at Iceberg Lake, Glacier NP, Montana

Looking for wildlife on the Iceberg Lake trail, Glacier NP

Wading through unusual amounts of snowmelt on the bridge over the Tuolumne River, Glen Aulin trail, Yosemite NP, California 

 

There was more runoff in those areas than I have ever seen.  The late melt in Yosemite made for some incredible waterfalls!  We also couldn't get to the higher hikes, so did North Dome instead.  I love that hike.  Puts you right across the valley from the face of Half Dome.

Above is the face of Half Dome from the North Dome trail, Yosemite NP, CA

(the photo does not do this view justice, IMHO)



Later in mid-August, Iceberg Lake had thawed.  Glacier NP, MT

Hiking in the Many Glacier region of Glacier NP

In late August, we had a chance to do the hike to Cathedral Lake in Yosemite on our own.  The hike continues above the lake for a great view of Cathedral Peak (photo below).  One day, I would really like to climb that peak!  Another cool area we explored was the 20 Lakes Basin, close to Tioga Pass/Saddlebag Lake.

Cathedral Peak, Yosemite NP

20 Lake Basin, CA, near Yosemite NP

September took us to Lassen Volcanic National Park in Northern California.  After Labor Day, we felt like we had the place to ourselves.  The weather was fantastic!

View from Brokeoff Mtn, Lassen Volcanic NP, CA

Taking a break on top of Brokeoff Mtn, Lassen Volcanic NP

Cinder cone hike with Mt. Lassen in background

After Lassen we went back to Yosemite.  The snow had melted and we were able to access more of the high country, yay!  Everyone was able to enjoy some spectacular views that week.     

Hiking the Panorama trail near Glacier Point, Yosemite NP, CA

Top of Cloud's Rest, Yosemite NP

Looking back towards Tuolumne Meadows from Glen Aulin trail, Yosemite NP

  Mother & daughter at Mariposa Grove of Sequoias, Yosemite NP

Our last hiking tour of the season led us back to Bryce & Zion. 

Steve & Nola below Tower Bridge, Fairyland Loop, Bryce Canyon NP, UT

Hiking Fairyland Loop, Bryce Canyon NP

Hiking on the Observation Point trail, Zion NP, UT

Returning from the top of Angel's Landing, Zion NP, UT

I have far too many pics to post them all right here.  We met so many really great people last year, many of which will I'm sure will become good friends over the years. 

Thank you for visiting and thanks, 2011!!

 



So... Where To Go?

So many hikes, so little time! How do you decide where to go? Hikers I know are constantly asking me about what hiking trip to take. Most of the time, as I get to know their hiking style and find out what they like, it is relatively easy to recommend which places to visit next. For instance, if you dislike exposure and hiking up & down big hills, it makes no sense for you to hike into (and out of!) the Grand Canyon. It might not be your best choice for your first hiking trip! However, if you are up for great challenge, then you must put it on your "Bucket List"!

What interests you? Mountains, ocean, rivers? Desert, rock? Cooler places or warmer climates? Local, domestic, or foreign? Although I absolutely love the trails where I live in Colorado, I am really passionate about spending time in National Parks. Each park has its own "personality" and was established for some natural wonder or historical significance.

Let's just start with the basics. Here are some of my favorite National Parks (not in any particular order):

Glacier National Park, MT:

Known for its abundance of wildlife and flowers, Glacier's most beautiful hiking trails may lead you into beautiful alpine settings with spectacular views of angulated peaks and turquoise blue glacier-fed lakes. You may spot a mountain goat, bighorn sheep, black or grizzly bear from the trail... how exciting!

Yosemite National Park, CA:

Yes, you can find solitude in one of North America's most popular parks. It won't be in Yosemite Valley, though, but the Valley is popular for good reason. Granite cliffs of more than 3000' high line the valley. Incredible views are abundant. But get back in the backcountry more than two or three miles and you'll leave a lot of those valley crowds behind. Don't get me wrong -- there are some amazing hikes accessing the valley (Panorama Trail, Yosemite Falls). The more adventurous may wish to check out hikes out of Tuolumne Meadows and beyond, especially if you love getting into the high country!

Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks, UT:

These two gems of the Colorado Plateau are so close yet so different. Bryce Canyon is not really a canyon -- the park is comprised of the Paunsaugunt Plateau as well as the colorful Bryce Ampitheater. Bryce Ampitheater is a wonderland, filled with brilliant colored hoodoos. Zion Canyon, carved by the Virgin River, is an awe-inspiring landscape. Towering rock walls of pink, cream, and vermillion loom above you, that is, unless you take to one of the trails that access the East or West Rim!

Rocky Mountain National Park, CO:

What's not to love about Rocky Mountain? I've got a special fondness of this park since this was my first park to visit when I was a child. Snowcapped peaks, alpine wildflowers, and elk abound! Many of the popular trailheads lie near Moraine Park or Bear Lake. If you want a real challenge, try Long's Peak, at a summit elevation of 14,255', is the tallest and one of the most recognized peaks of the Front Range. Train for the hike, though... it's at least 14 miles round trip and 5,100' of vertical rise to the summit! Whew!

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ:

An American icon. Many hikers I've met over the years have had "Hiking to the bottom of the Grand Canyon" on their life lists. I've hiked with several of them down & back up over the years, too. This is most definitely a special place. It can be many things: challenging, awe-inspiring (sounds cliché, but true), spiritual... People from all over the world come to visit this park. Bright Angel Trail ranks up there with the "must do" list as it takes you from nearly 7000' down to Phantom Ranch, nearly a vertical mile below. It's definitely not a day hike, but if you are willing to plan ahead and deal with rustic but comfortable accommodations, it is a wonderful overnight. For those of you who are more adventurous and experienced, offseason and lesser-known trails make for some memorable hiking/backpacking outings.
These are only a few from my (lengthy) list!

I find Ken Burns' 6-part documentary, "The National Parks: America's Best Idea", to be a truly inspiring and educational film. Check it out at PBS. 


Many parks offer free shuttles once you are in the park. Some of these can be used for point-to-point hikes. Make sure you are up to date with the shuttle schedules before you set out. You can access each park's website on the National Park Service's main page.
Follow the link above to the park of your choice. Look under "plan your visit" or the left hand column. There are often park newspapers under the link "brochures" which list shuttle schedules as well as ranger-led programs, visitor services, park map, and some hiking trails. 

Thanks for visiting and have fun exploring the possibilities!